I was stocking up on basics when I spotted an amazing selection of organs and offal, fresh from Peter McDonald’s farm in Romulus, NY. Tongue is one of the few offcuts that can make me a little squeamish; it lies in a no-man’s land between the basic tenets drummed in to me by my dad (”If you kill it, eat [all] of it”) and the kind of intriguing colloidal chemistry that some dishes require you to exercise.
Just over a year ago, I got to taste a mille crêpes for the first time. I had missed all the hoop-la about this being the uber-chic dessert of 2007, and so my expectations were uninflated by anything other than the enthusiasm of the client who gave me some to try. It was delicious, and I’ve wanted ever since to try and make one - not out of any sense of egomania, but just because I like making crêpes and thought I should probably conquer my morbid fear of pastry cream at some point. Carrot, stick, etc.
26 crêpes layered with green tea pastry cream and gianduja…. oh, ok then, Nutella
I made this with a friend for her boyfriend’s birthday party, following this recipe and it was damn tasty. I’m rather fond of its blatant brag of a name, and I’m not scared of pastry cream any more. It also travels particularly amiably on the B61 bus, which is a major plus in my world.
Duck*, wild turkey, chicken, pheasant from the farmer’s market in Rhinebeck, NY
*or goose? The friend who brought these to me couldn’t remember (too much fresh country air) - but I’m pretty sure it’s a duck egg.
(sing it, Franky baby)
Requirements: some tuile batter, gel food coloring, acetate sheets and an exacto knife. Oh, and it can’t be raining. I mean, it can, but you’ll make yourself crazy trying to make tuiles if it’s humid, so if it is, don’t. You know.
