eat yer greens
This is a veritable UN of green leafy goodness. So there’s only one way to ensure world peace.
Yeah you right. It’s gumbo time.
I love gumbo z’herbes, for its deep, deep flavor with just the faintest distant tang of bitterness. Most recipes list between ten and sixteen different greens you can include, and then recommend using “at least” six. I’m a magpie: I won’t settle for less than twelve. After all, if I can’t wheedle beet greens and carrot tops for free when most grocers trim them to throw away, I feel like I’m missing the point of this gumbo in the first place. And if I end up with an unintended bunch of radishes… well, it’s snack time.
The really fun part is cooking the roux. I swear one of these days I will push it far enough to match the color of my 1970s stove enamel. I’m getting closer every time I make gumbo; I shift from nonchalantly doing some dishes or chopping andouille (yeah I know - I’ll come back to that) while the roux is still in its blonde phase, to hovering anxiously over the pot, squinting to compare it with the orange tan of the floorboards (my mid point). Finally, I’m stirring slowly but incessantly, flapping one hand over the pot to carry the scent of the roux to me, and neurotically checking and rechecking that the chopped onion/celery/green pepper trinity is within easy grabbing distance for that moment when it will be my emergency brake and stop this carefully coaxed mix of flour and oil from plummeting over the edge, from crossing the line into that merciless hint of scorch that will force you to start all over again. It can get a little dramatic.
So the andouille thing: I know this is traditionally a Lenten dish, but I figure if a ham hock is allowed, then….? And it’s so good. A pinch of file powder, a dash of hot sauce, and cornbread straight from the oven, and you’re set. And I don’t bother with rice (more sacrilege), but a side of white cabbage slaw rounds things off really nicely if you’re feeling energetic.
So apart from the fact that I’m about to run out of my precious supply of Crystal hot sauce, what’s wrong with this picture?
Uh-huh.
Not a damn thing.
The recipe is much too long-winded to post here, but I’m happy to email it to anyone who’s interested. Use the comments form or the contact page on the main website to let me know if you’d like a copy.




